COOKING FATS
Here is a summary of the various types of cooking fats
I use and their best applications.

Clarified Butter
A good choice for sautéing or pan-frying if you want the extra richness and flavor, but it takes a little effort to prepare or obtain. It doesn't burn like regular butter because the milk solids have been extracted.

Canola Oil
Light and relatively neutral, with a high smoke point so you don't have to worry so much about it burning and introducing bitter flavors. Good for frying and sautéing.

Grapeseed Oil
One of the lighter, more neutral oils, it works well as a finishing agent in raw preparations.

Nut Oils
Oils such as hazelnut, walnut, and pistachio are good for dressings in raw preparations such as salads, especially when there's a flavor compatibility-that is, when the nut's flavors find a favorable complement or contrast with one or more of the other ingredients.

Olive Oil
Olive oil is one of nature's greatest gifts to mankind. I almost always use some type of cold-pressed extra-virgin olive oil, as opposed to anything that's been filtered or refined. For cooking, I tend toward a lighter oil, while for finishing I'll put out all the stops and use a heavy, green, fruity or peppery oil. The best oils have low acidity and are cold-pressed, with no filtering, refining, or chemical additives. Light olive oil, a relatively new product, is high-quality olive oil that's been carefully filtered to render it lighter in flavor and color, and also to give it a higher smoke point; it's appropriate for frying and other high-temperature cooking processes that could call for any number of vegetable oils.

In general, the lighter-colored extra-virgin olive oils such as Monini (a top brand
from Umbria in central Italy) are best for vinaigrettes on uncooked foods. Some of the heavier first cold-pressed oils from small farms or top vineyards in Tuscany can be used to dress dishes alone, with no help from vinegar or other accompaniments. The big, fruity ones-used in moderation can also make a good salad dressing. I'm always in search of the perfect olive oil, and I've found good ones from France, Italy, Greece, and California. Each has its own distinctions and subtleties. Some of the southern French ones are delightfully delicate and floral; some of the top Tuscans are rich, peppery, and unctuous; some of the Greeks are just massive and powerful. Each has its time and place. I encourage you to try as many as possible, and to experiment to find the best pairings with various ingredients.

Peanut Oil
Like canola oil, it works well for frying and sautéing due to its high smoke point. It's a bit less flavor-neutral than canola, but this can be a plus, especially for Asian-accented recipes.

SALT
If there's a general, all-purpose, default salt in my cooking, it's the kosher variety. The large grains offer good definition and flavor; they also let you see what you're doing before the salt dissolves and disappears into the bubbling cauldron. I use it for all cooking and broiling.

Of the fancier salts, Maldon is one of my favorites; it's a medium-coarse sea salt from England with white, flat grains. I really like its flavor and texture. Maldon's French counterpart, fleur de sel (also a sea salt, or sel de mer), which is slightly gray in color, is expensive but great for rustic terrines and for finishing meat dishes. For raw foods, salads, or any other dishes of delicate texture or consistency that require an easily dissolved salt, use fine sea salt. Stay away from any of the mass-market iodine-enriched salts traditionally available in U.S. supermarkets; they're chemically altered and enhanced, and way too acidic.

As for quantities, my philosophy is always season to taste. Of all the principles of cooking this is one of the most crucial: keep tasting and adjusting until you're satisfied. Try to err on the side of caution, which means under salt a bit; your guests can always add more at the table. Also, be consistently aware that the degree of salting is a matter of preference; somewhat salty to you may be virtually inedible to the next person.

In my ingredient lists and recipe instructions through the book, I try to be as specific as possible with regard to all procedures, including salting. At times, you'll find a specific, defined amount ("1 1/2 tablespoons"); feel free to adjust as you see fit. In other instances, you may find approximate measurements-"about 1 teaspoon," "a handful," or "a pinch"-or even a general guideline such as "lightly," "moderately," or "generously." None of this is meant to be precious, vague, disingenuous, or confusing; rather, it illustrates the point that in each instance and every respect, fine cooking is more art than science. And exact amounts are always determined by you, the chef, through regular tasting and adjusting.